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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.